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10 at Hansen’s Energy Pipelin Pro

This wave holds a huge place in my heart signifying a lot of things in my life at the time. I was 19 living at the Quiksilver Pipe house for the season. I had been very upset and frustrated over the years struggling with knee problems. I really wanted to get recognized and receive a pro surfing opportunity. A few weeks before I caught this wave I went for a snap on my 7’6” Andrus Pipeline gun and heard my knee just pop. I knew I had done it in again and was going to have to get my second surgery. It was miserable.

I cried myself to sleep in pain and fear. I was so sad and scared. I wanted to have healthy strong knees because I knew I would need them. Everything collapsed.

The final day of the event saw the largest swell I have ever seen light up third Reef Pipeline in all my years of going to the North Shore.

I hung in there for a few weeks and caught the wave of my life in the Hansen’s Energy Pipeline Pro in 2002. Please post a comment.